Tuesday, January 6, 2009

AJC Gives Flip Four Stars

Flip, the new Atlanta burger eatery from the team of Barry Mills and Richard Blais, was given a stellar review and four stars by the Atlanta Journal Constitution. Mark Nanna, husband of The Good Graces' Kim Ware, is the operating chef there. My personal review gives Flip five stars, but the AJC has more readers.

For someone who has never opened a restaurant before, businessman Barry Mills is sitting pretty right now. Burrowed into the weirdness that makes up the stretch of Howell Mill Road between I- 75 and the Atlanta Waterworks, his mod house of burgers, Flip, has a bar packed three- to four-deep, and the dining room is turning tables faster than the cooks can flip the burgers onto their buttery brioche buns.

A smallish room, as square as a to-go box, is highlighted by blond-wood tables and aluminum chairs, hipster music, splashes of red and white, and a custom graphic on the back wall that conjures the fleeting feeling of Warhol’s Exploding Plastic Inevitable mutimedia events. But Flip is hardly a nihilistic showdown of any sort.

No, everything here, from the name to the playful faux-French frames around the flat screen TVs is fun. Especially the burgers.

Well, that is save for one thing: The title “creative director” for chef Richard Blais seems a bit stuffy for the guy who introduced Atlanta to liquid nitrogen and frozen Coca-Cola rocks.

Finally, after years of wandering nomadic in Atlanta’s restaurant scene — from his own failed Blais five years ago to his star-maker stint last year on Bravo’s “Top Chef” — Blais has arrived.

And with what? Burgers.

Read the whole review here.

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